Fashion is changing, along with many other things in design. Believe it or not, it does. The state of the fashion industry globally, is starting not only to imply the need for modifications of all kinds but to introduce the necessary tools (some of theme already there for more than a decade), to make fashion a (more) sustainable place, a fairer business for the humans and the planet. The rhythm might be still slow but steady and decisive towards that direction, the procedure can be proved a conflicting one, even painful but absolutely inevitable in order to progress inside the industry, macro-economically and ethically. Bangladesh is one of the epicenters of the global ready-made garment (RMG) industry: being the mainstay of the Bangladesh economy, the sector accounts for 85% of export earnings, about 20% of GDP, and directly employs about four million workers with more than 12 million workers dependent on the sector.
The impact of Covid-19 and the cancellations of orders by retailers, many of which are based in the UK or have operations in the UK market, have led to factory closures and job losses, leaving around 2.8 million workers facing poverty and hunger. More recent reports show that Covid-19 is having an ongoing impact on the industry and, more specifically, on the factory workers. Beyond the disruption caused by buyers cancelling orders and not paying for orders in process, the industry was disrupted by a lockdown, the costs of Covid-19 mitigation measures in the factories, and buyers demanding discounts when they started to place new orders.
The disruptions from Covid-19 exacerbated interrelated vulnerabilities in economic security, job security, food security, housing security and health and wellbeing, resulting in women workers struggling to support themselves and their families. These serious disruptions and devastating impacts on workers were exacerbated and, in some cases, directly caused by retailers and brands selling into the UK and other markets in the Global North.
The Covid-19 related disruption of the RMG has had a negative impact on workforce and owners, but the most negative impact has been on female workers. Physical violence, disrespect, indifference to essential or primary human needs (i.e toilet time), penalties for those supporting demonstrators) et al. Pregnancy is reported as “punished” with dismissal and long-term contractors are threatened because of their established/locked work rights to compensation. Unions are hesitant to seriously intervene as a safety net for those in danger and fellow workers are terrorized to be fired in case of openly supporting colleagues. Lack of sleep, malnutrition, anxiety and despite the forced sanitary measures induced for protection against Covid-19 (masks, hand sanitizing etc), the overall conditions or work plus the level of the employees general well-being continue to be rather appalling. Gender discrimination, harassment and abuse are additional pivotal issues regarding the mal-exploitation of female workers especially, a double-ended blade both inside their home and also at their work environment.
As the current condition and status of women and girls in employment in Bangladesh remains poor, Bangladesh is rated as one of the ten worst countries on the Trade Union Confederation’s Global Rights Index. Bangladesh has signed up to the international frameworks for promoting gender equality including in employment. Although the Constitution mandates gender equality, this does not apply in the private sector, and there is no law promoting gender equality or prohibiting gender discrimination in employment.
Bangladesh does not seem to comply with international Labour laws and regulations, just yet though. Compliance auditors were least likely to say they had audited for trade union recognition; 40% did not check for this. In the interviews with representatives of trade unions, the international development agencies and international and local NGOs, concerns were frequently raised about the negative attitudes of owners to trade unions and their reluctance to let workers exercise their limited rights under the law.
Pilars 4 Change: New Framework of Regulations in the EU, UK and the West, Independent Watchdog Institutions, proper sourcing, diplomacy, social pressure, media engagement.
Chief investigator of this project, Muhammad Azizul Islam, PhD, Professor in Sustainability Accounting & Transparency at the University of Aberdeen Business School, took the time to kindly answer the following questions with the opportunity of the report finally going public last week (for the full published document please click here).
all4design-design4all: Fast fashion still continues as greenwashing does evidently, what more needs to be done in order for the specific part of the industry to be seriously regulated?
Prof. Muhammed Azizul Islam: In our report, we have a few recommendations such as an independent fashion watchdog. Based on our findings, we can reflect on the UK Modern Slavery Act and argue that such regulation gives scope for greenwashing via voluntary disclosures. Mandatory disclosure requirements with mandatory independent audit with the penalty for human rights negligence within the supply chain, would be helpful to reduce slavery.
A4D-D4A: Underprivileged youth and their access to the fashion industry: is it a possible career path for young people without substantial means not only in countries like Bangladesh but generally in similar countries where outsourcing in garment production is very expanded?
Prof. M.A.Islam: Education is the most important factor for any good career path. Right now, the majority of workers in the RMG industry in Bangladesh are women who are young, poorly educated and from rural areas with few alternative employment options. One may need to realize that if someone is educated and aware of their rights as human beings, employers cannot offer them low wages (or wages lower than the minimum legal limit). Poorly educated people are the most vulnerable to exploitation in this world. In our study, we found some instances of young women employed in the factories during Covid-19, and there was a high risk of exploitation as young girls were paid a low salary (even below minimum wage). If girls were well educated, they could choose their own destiny, but most of the poorly educated girls in Bangladesh and other similar countries do not have a voice against exploitation.
A4D-D4A: How technology (apps, platforms, digital tools) can help educate fashion workers in terms of developing their skills but also getting awareness about their rights?
Prof. M.A.Islam: Our research did not focus on the technology aspect specifically. But my argument is technology is less likely to resolve or reduce exploitation if brands‟ own unethical behavior cannot be controlled by technology.
A4D-D4A: Do you feel that the current curriculum in fashion institutes and universities is focusing enough on eco-conscious, ethical and sustainable fashion, in terms of courses, seminars and practices?
Prof. M.A.Islam: This is a really good question. Coming from Business School, I would say the way CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) and sustainability education are heading is not helpful in creating change. We need education that challenges the current practices, need to question taken for granted approach. Please have a look at this short article under the link (education material for aged 14-19), in which I raise concern over business schools‟ lack of focus: Tackling modern slavery: a sustainability accounting perspective- Futurum
A4D-D4A: Do you think that circular fashion (upcycling) in studios, haute couture and factories can possibly create a new financial ecosystem in the future for the fashion and accessories industry-at-large?
Prof. M.A.Islam: Yes, circular fashion is important and should encourage people to use fewer clothes, reuse clothes. One must think of why we need one another—this would help our earth and climate. This is my future research agenda!
Many thanks to Professor Muhammad Azizul Islam, PhD, for his intervention.
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All citations from the report in the article are attributed to: Islam M. A., Abbott, P., Haque, S., Gooch, F. & Akhter, S. (2022),„The Impact of Covid-19 on Women Workers in the Bangladesh Garment Industry‟, Research Report, January 2022,The University of Aberdeen and the Modern Slavery and Human Rights Policy and Evidence Centre (Modern Slavery PEC), UK. This is a report from the project entitled Toward the Development of Post Covid-19 Gender Policy Measures to End Modern Slavery and Exploitation in the Bangladeshi Garment Sector, the Modern Slavery and Human Rights Policy and Evidence Centre (Modern Slavery PEC) research project, funded by the UK Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC). The research was carried out by Muhammed Azizul Islam, Pamela Abbott, Shamima Haque, Fiona Gooch and Salma Akhter.
*The views expressed in this report are those of the authors and not necessarily of the Modern Slavery PEC, the Court of the University of Aberdeen, Traidcraft Exchange or the Arts and Humanities Research Council. This project was funded through the Modern Slavery PEC open call for proposals.
The Modern Slavery and Human Rights Policy and Evidence Centre was created by the investment of public funding to enhance understanding of modern slavery and transform the effectiveness of law and policies designed to overcome it. With high quality research it commissions at its heart, the Centre brings together academics, policymakers, businesses, civil society, survivors and the public on a scale not seen before in the UK to collaborate on solving this global challenge. The Centre is a consortium of six academic organizations led by the Bingham Centre for the Rule of Law and is funded by the Art and Humanities Research Council on behalf of UK Research and Innovation (UKRI).
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